Friday, January 31, 2014



Doing the Great North Walk Backwards

Day 26 - 2 January 2014 

The final section at last. Thursday 2 Jan, Kerrie drove me to Chatswood, I trained to Thornleigh then followed the signs past the shops and onto the GNW again, heading East towards Lane Cove. The map said 'mostly easy with some steep', tho for me it was a hard walk on a hot and humid day, taking seven hours. My pedometer registered 29,416 steps,.. almost worth a prize said Kerrie and Laurie.


I followed the Lane Cove River all the way, from its headwaters as a creek through bush near Epping and Pymble; it does not start to look like a river until it goes under Lane Cove Road at Macquarie Park. Then it carves through large rock sections which show before development the river serviced a large catchment area for milennia. Development has reduced flow and increased silt where once were sandy banks and has changed the ecology. 'Fairyland' is a good example; formerly a beautiful beachy area popular with indigenous, then colonial gatherings, now completely silted out and overgrown. The price of cities.

Still it was a great walk with some beautiful sections of remnant trees, flowers and animals. Of the later, Eastern Water Dragons dominate. They love the usual sunning on a rock - and don't see why they should change their pose just to let you pass. Goannas are more than twice as big but fraidy cats by comparison. Fat giant skinks were common as I came further east, either they were all pregnant mums, or the moths are slow in these parts. 
Eastern Water Dragon with attitude

I met six individual walkers all day-trippers and heading the other way, each with different stories and intentions. One guy my age only had a little water, but assured me he was right because he also had half a thermos of coffee (?). His main complaint was about the lack of signage along the GNW.







And finally..... Day 27 - 3 January 2014 

Kerrie and Barbara
Sisters Kerrie and Barb joined me on the final day, Friday 3 Jan, for the relatively civilized stroll from Lane Cove to Hunters Hill, albeit about 6 hours. Half this day was street-side, the rest was walking close to water (very high tide) and on boardwalks through salty marsh, with lots of fish and eels.
Despite three sets of eyes and brains we lost our way few times, usually missing the sign posts. Occasionally B and K would suggest we take shortcuts, and stop for coffee, lunch, snooze, chats, etc, so it was my responsible duty to keep us going on the true path. 

Seriously though we had a great day. Not too difficult or hot. It was fun to finally reach Woolwich Pier, catch the ferry via Cockatoo Island, get off at Circular Quay, walk up to the famous Obelisk, declare the walk completed, and take a photo. Shirl turned up, as the official witness, and collected Barb. So Kerrie and I had a beer and lunch, then she left and I jumped on a train for Newcastle.
Done! The Obelisk at last.

GNW done! One day short of 4 weeks. Where did I read it takes 10 days to 2 weeks? Where did I read the record is 62 hours? .... I don't think so.



 Thanks to my sisters and friends, without whom I may not have survived let alone completed the trek. It was definitely worth doing, although a tad harder than I thought it would be. Not that I had many expectations. One regret - I did not think beforehand to flog sponsorships for an animal charity. Also it would have been great if Peter could have done the whole trip, but it was not to be. At least our first few days walking together were great, and helped me adjust to what I needed to cope with alone for the rest of the trip.

People ask me what I learnt from the walk. How can I answer that?  
  •  I learnt a wonderful a poem by Lisel Mueller called Monet Refuses the Operation.
  •  I also learnt that maps are metaphors not truth, like language, but they can change our life.
  •  I learnt how to carry a load and think of other things.
  •  I learnt a bit about the bush, birds, bugs and leeches; about streams, rivers, trees, lizards, flowers and black hairy kangaroos, and about how lucky I am to be alive in this country.
  •  I learnt a bit about gratitude, about how much I have and how little of it I appreciate, and how good most people are at heart.
  •  I learnt how to be thirsty and how to drink. I learnt a little about how to suffer, how to be lost, to slip, to fall, to land... and how not to panic.
  •  I learnt a bit about beauty, ...a little about photography, drawing, painting, form, style, and light. I learnt other things about the length of a day, about night, heat and sweat.
  •  I learnt a bit more about me, some too hard to articulate now, except how much I have yet to learn.
  •  I learnt a bit around the paradox that everything is both simple and complex, that 'context is all', confirming my agnosticism that in the end we can never sure of anything. For me, as others have said better, the answer is the journey.
So... here endeth the indulgence,... thanks again, and love to all.
Colin

Tuesday, January 28, 2014

Doing the Great North Walk Backwards

Day 22 - 29 December 2013 - Rest day at Bob and Shirl's

Day 23 - 30  December 2013

Topping up at Crosslands
Monday. Shirl drove me back to the GNW track at place called Crosslands, a large camping ground on the Berowra Creek not far from the non-bridge over The Calna (which I had by-passed).
Easy walking heading South following the creek. I reached Galston Gorge in 2 hours, had a rest and some water. Thought I was hallucinating when two chooks came out of the bush, a colourful rooster and a white hen clucking and scratching around happily.
The Lesser Spotted Bush Chook



There at GG the track meets Galston Road and the creek splits into Turks Creek and Cowra Creek. I followed the sign to go under the road bridge and continued on the track, or so I thought. An hour later, there was no track left and I was in dense bush. Had a few scares pushing through bush trying to find the track, distracted and annoyed with myself for getting lost, I slipped on caserina needles on a steep rock and slid down on my stomach towards a big drop til my boot jagged a ledge. I was face down on the sloping rock and had to get my pack off without losing it before I could get back to my feet. Another time climbing I committed to a step without securing it first and my stick went through a veneer of leaf into nothing. I toppled over and just managed to throw away my other stick and grab a tree with both arms as I flew past it.. My pack wanted to keep falling of course and wrenched on my shoulders.

Before making another mistake I thought it was time for a Plan B, so out with the iPhone which indicated I was a long way from the track and following the wrong creek leading nowhere. So I retraced my steps for an hour back to Galston Gorge, sat under the bridge to recover and work out where the track went. Maybe it crosses the creek and heads steeply up the mountain. I headed off that way which turned out correct as the arrow signs reappeared after a while.


Having tested me, the universe provides. Running out of energy mid-arvo, I came to a space good enough to camp. Clearing the ground for my tent I saw an Australian Army 'Ration Pack B' resting near a log. Someone had eaten all the meat items, which were no good to me anyhow, leaving dried veggies and delicacies of condensed milk, chocolate, energy drink, etc all a good compliment for what Shirl had given me, quiche  and mince tarts. Thanks Shirl. 

I ate well for two days. 

Day 24 - 31  December 2013
Early next morning, last day of the year, I packed and walked into the heat, then beautiful dense bush with occasional water. I knew I was near civilization as the occasional runner and cyclist overtook me, and not many were interested in talking beyond a Hi. I passed Fishponds, then the Hornsby turnoff, and eventually reached a road, houses, then Thornleigh Station.  I caught a train to sister Kerrie's place for a rest day. Figure I have two more days to reach Circular Quay.

Day 25 - 1 January 2014
A slow day day after a quiet NYE at Kerrie and Laurie's, reflecting on life, the universe, walking, and everything. 

Tuesday, January 21, 2014


Doing the Great North Walk Backwards

Day 19 - 26 December - Rest day.  After a Xmas day to remember, with the best and worst of the trip so far, I woke on Boxing Day to a gap in the rain which I seized to pack the tent and train from Cowan to Hornsby, find a Dodgy Brothers Motel room to dry out and recover. 

Day 20 - 27 December
Next day sister Barb collected me and we drove back to Cowan to rejoin the track. Rain gone, a cool day to start, good for walking, and it was great to have Barb to talk with instead of being lost in my world as usual. 
Barb, setting out from Cowan

Mid arvo we camped in the Berowra reserve, part of the Muggamarra Reserve, at a spot we thought was fairly isolated. However that evening and next morning we had quite a few visitors willing to stop and chat, either tourists or residents of nearby Berowra Heights out for a stroll in their own beautiful bush.

End of Day 20, near Berowra Heights

Next morning, Sat 28, breaky at fireside and on the track again. We noticed how few birds there were. Noisy cicadas, the odd kookaburra and currawong, but nothing else. Are they discouraged by the cicadas, eaten by cats, or what? No shortage of kangaroos though. Black hairy ones. They might be overgrown wallabies. They raided our rubbish bag during the night and loudly munched through orange peels right next to my tent. Very strange.

Sunrise over Berowra Valley

That day we did some great walking although bit steep in parts, down up and finally all way down to the water. Berowra Waters looks beautiful from above as well as close up, ..deep-water fronted houses for the well-heeled, each with its own jetty. 

Sophie and Barb

A floated plane ferried into to some luxury joint as we watched. Finally we made it to a little cafe at the car-ferry, had a great coffee and lunch then Sophia arrived to collect Barb. It was great to catch up with Sophie. 
So intrepid

I continued south alongside Berowa Creek heading upstream. We had heard the bridge over Calna Creek had collapsed about 8 months ago, ..since then an argument as to which dept should pay for it. So my Plan B was to camp somewhere near water then next day walk an extra 6k up to Mt Kuringai. 

Naa Badu Lookout - Berowra Valley

At my first choice of camp site a brown snake convinced me to keep walking, which was lucky because I came to the collapsed bridge over Calna Creek, which turns out to be great place for a swim. Sure enough the bridge is snapped in the middle and submerged. Still hot, I stripped off and swam to the other side. 
The much-discussed ex-bridge at Calna Creek

The water felt so good. So I set up camp right there and later entertained a couple of guys who turned up in a home-made wooden kayak. It was leaking a lot so I helped them to lift and empty it so they could return to their car at Crosslands.  Slept well feeling clean from the swim...except for the noisy mullet jumping about all night. Apparently our waters are full of mullet because we whitefellas decided 30 years ago it was not fashionable to eat them. Some boaties told me mullet 'over-breed', and sometimes jump into your boat because they're crazy.
Strange native rock formation

Day 21 - 28 December
Next morning I decamped (as the police say) early, and after half a day walking and a few more discussions with strangers, met Barb who collected me at Mt Kuringai, then to Shirls. Now I'm feeling totally spoilt, clean clothes, well-fed and about to sleep in a real bed.

Sunday, January 19, 2014

Doing the Great North Walk Backwards 

Day 18 - 25 December 2013 - Brooklyn to Cowan on Christmas Day

Feeling rested, I set out from my little hotel room at 6.30am. Cool air and cloudy sky. Steady climb for about 2km on a concrete fire trail, then winding track with stunning views over Dangar and Long Island.  
Over-looking Long Island to the New Rail Bridge
  It was great to walk in cool for a change. I started to notice all the flowers, taking too many snaps. 

Brooklyn Dam

Passed Brooklyn Dam a great swimming spot. Met a guy who walks up to the dam and back each morning before breakfast. Reckons it only takes him 90 mins.. Took me that long one way with my pack.
Kept climbing. Rain increasing. Met another guy from Germany coming the other way holding an umbrella.. We chatted a bit then another guy sped passed wearing only shorts and boots. Takes all kinds.
The track became rugged and steep descending to sea level again and wilderness of Jerusalem Bay, a fitting place for my Xmas lunch.
Rain increased as I climbed the range again. It still felt good in the cool. Colours of the wet tree trunks were stunning. Stopped a few times to try to photo without getting my iPhone wet.

Angophora Costata as wet as me, at Jerusalem Bay


Eventually arrived Cowan late arvo after 12 hours walking. Nothing there of course, the only shop closed. Still raining, found a spot in a small park behind a bush to pitch tent. Pulled off a few leeches, waited for bleeding to stop before getting into sleeping bag, not fun now!
Barb txt that storms are coming tomorrow, so we change plans to meet up next day. I'll try for a hotel in Hornsby tomorrow morning since already in tent and rain increasing. Need a day to dry out. Happy Xmas and Goodnight!

Thursday, January 16, 2014

Doing the Great North Walk Backwards

Day 14 - 21 December 2013 - Day of rest

Day 15 - 22 December - Somersby to Mooney Mooney

Early on Sunday 22 Doria dropped me back where she found me, Somersby Store. I was carrying 3 litres of water thinking that would be enough, and sadly dismissed the thought of calling into the shop to buy couple of additional liquid treats. Didn't want the weight. Thought I'd get water at Somersby Falls and I'd be fine.
I set out on sealed road, to dirt, to track. Hot day, getting hotter by the minute. Thundering cicadas. At least there were no flies, like there are around Alice Springs. The track wounds through scrub, then angophora forest above Mooney Dam. About midday I came to a sign advising the connection track to Somersby Falls was 'not open', which was a worry as the map assured me the falls was a good water supply.

Not to worry, although temp still rising and very muggy. Came to a dam, unnamed on the map but in middle of Brisbane Water Nat Pk. See photo attached, beautiful, but still dark water and a few warning signs around about 'submerged objects' so decided against drinking it or a swim, although feeling the heat.
Mooney Dam?
Following Mooney Mooney Creek I came upon huge expanse of rock, quite moon-like, maybe thus the name? Water was flowing, sort of, but not fast enough for my drinking safety test. Note to self- consider water purification tablets next time. Kept walking and feeling the heat by late afternoon, I found a space to camp near the creek, stripped off and jumped in. It felt so good, although brackish and tidal. Setting up camp I couldn't understand why it kept getting hotter so late in the day. I got into the water again several times just to slow down my sweating, worried about drinking water.



Day 16- 23 December - Mooney Mooney to Brooklyn

Next morning I set off early with water on my mind. Thought of Burke and Wills, their tragic end, (see my review of a recent book in NSW Law Soc Journal, Feb 2014) who may have survived if they had relaxed their cultural presumptions about indigenous knowledge. Meanwhile, still following the M-M creek, it became less inviting and more salty with mangroves. Then above me appeared the towering New M-M Bridge, carrying the M1. It seemed incredibly high from the creek looking up, maybe 100m.
The M1 fly-over bridge
Then came to a few isolated houses fronting the creek, considered knocking on doors for water but was still very early and the Aust Nationalist flags were not welcoming. So I continued on to find the Old M-M Bridge, carrying the Pacific Highway across the river, with memories of the James mob in the '60's crammed into our FJ Holden heading up to Budgewoi. Now it seems only motorbikes use it.
Walked across to other side of creek, a few more km into wilderness, stopped to sip water, check the map, and re-think situation. Already sweating, another hot day brewing, and prospect of climbing Mt Wondabyne. Need water. Big decision... hate retreating, but it was wise.
So I headed back a few km, back to the sleeping houses with the Aussie flags, thinking I had the right kind of hat (Akubra) I banged on the door til a bloke came out. Of course he was great guy, topped up my water, wanted to chat but I had to keep going.
Later climbing Wondabyne, drinking freely, and sweating just as fast, reached the top and crossed large expanses of rock. It reminded me of Ayers Rock partially covered in Eucs. Feeling the heat and stopping a lot, looking out over an ocean of tree tops.

Early afternoon I came to an intersection. One way to Patonga Ferry, to cross the Hawkesbury R, the other to Wondabyne Station, to flag down a Sydney train to stop and take me to Brooklyn. The ferry service from Patonga had closed down years ago and the map (2008) said I should ring and book a water taxi instead. I had already tried that. The captain said the 10 min trip would cost me $80, however if someone offered him a glass of wine that day he would not turn up. Quick to get the message, I chose plan B.
Looking across Mullet Creek from Wondabyne

Wondabyne must be the smallest station in Australia, nestled on Mullet Creek. Trains stop only 'on request', which might be once or twice a week, although I saw the latest Opel ticketing system had been installed on both tiny platforms. I flagged a train down. The last carriage came to a stop at the platform, and there it stayed for an hour. Apparently a goods train had broken down ahead. The guard stepped off for a chat and said this train was now two hours late. He reckoned since the goods-rail service had been privatised, breakdowns had increased, causing more delays in passenger trains which were coping the criticism from irate passengers. Soon there was a mini-mutiny, about 50 passengers walked the length of the train to exit through the guard's door onto my tiny platform just to complain to the guard again, and have a smoke. It was awful! I was about to walk into the bush again for some air when word came the track was clear and they all filed back into the single door, one guy stubbing his fag out into the side of the train as if in anger, and off they went.
I flagged down the next train, then tunnel, bridge, tunnel, and Hawkesbury River Station (Brooklyn), Angler's Rest Hotel, beer, shower, bed.

Day 17 - 24 December 2013 - Day of rest
Doing the Great North Walk Backwards

Day 11 - 18 December - Rest day in Wyong.
Staying in a little room at the Royal Hotel. Had several showers, relishing. Washed my clothes, bought some food, re-packed my gear, leaving some clothes and other stuff behind. Weight is precious and I'd prefer it in water. Rubbed my feet.

Day 12 - 19 December 2013 - Yarramalong to Stringybark Creek

Thursday morning, up early and left the hotel in Wyong, walking/ hitching half way 9k before I got a lift to Yarramalong. Called in to the shop to say Hi and bye to my new friends, and started climbing the track. I soon left Bumble Hill Rd to meander through some dense forest. Topped up with cool water from a stream, then came out into a clearing, and along a dry road through expensive horse county.

Into the bush again, winding down to some cool, temperate rain forest, where I topped up water again at a running stream. My experience of thirst a few days before Paxton has changed my behaviour, not only carrying as much as I can but looking at every chance to top up my bottles. This is rich wet forest but no telling what lies ahead.
Great diversity

Mid-arvo I came up from the valley to a camp site on the map marked 'Field Archery'. I was thinking of calling it a day, but a bunch of young guys had got there first from the south, so we chatted a bit about our day's experiences (they looked wrecked so I guess I looked the same).
I kept going 2 hours or so to next camp at Stringybark Point. Just a space near the track, which I took as the campsite.. Anyhow I set up my little tent near the stream, had a bite to eat, a bit of sleep and set off again early morning. 


Day 13 - 20 December 2013  Stringybark to Somersby Store

This was a hot day. The cicadas were loud before sunrise, a sure sign. As well, Shirl warned me with a txt that 41c was coming, which somehow helped, expecting the pain. I started on fire trails, alongside a stream (Ourimbah Creek on the map) that looked inviting, except for leeches and the odd mozie.
Cicada noise was often painful
Met a couple on trail bikes running their dogs. Later the trees cleared to lush pasture, with spoilt horses on agistment. Next, into Orimbah State Forest then winding deeply down into the valley of Palm Grove Forest.
By mid-arvo I began a steady climb out of the valley, with many stops for breath and water; reached fences, dirt road and eventually Wiseman's Ferry Road. Finally very happy to find Somersby Store, a big deal on the map but just a shed in reality. I was out of water so luxuriated in an ice cold coffee milk, and was very happy to be rescued by friend Doria for a rest day in Gosford.
  These two days gave me everything from dry and arid along dusty roads and fields to dense wet jungle bush with cool running water. So many different birdsong, many I've never heard before, and may not again.
Cedar stump. Logging for cedar finished here in 1870.

Heading off again tomorrow Sunday, towards Mooney Mooney and Mt Wondabyne.

This beauty escaped the axe.

Friday, January 10, 2014

Doing the Great North Walk Backwards
Day 7    14 Dec 2013 -   Paxton to Flatrock Lookout

I left Paxton Pub early in the cool, loaded with as much fluid as I could carry, and had to walk the extra 8km south to rejoin the GNW at Congewai Trackhead. Turned west through some lush pasture country, then climbed steadily 500m into the Corrabare State Forest.
Slightly steep going

The climb caused me to sweat in the heat and needed to drink more than I wanted to. However at the summit there was a comm tower with an unlocked gate, and very sweet water in a tank probably meant for the long-dead garden.

 The next few km followed a fire trail along the high ridge, eventually into the Watagan State Forest, and coming to Flat Rock Lookout early afternoon. Enough for one day so I pitched my tent on the edge. The view was not too painful.
Camping at an eyrie; Congewai Valley from Flatrock Lookout
Later a couple of mountain bike riders turned up and we chatted for a while and they gave me a litre of water and couple of muesli bars. They really wanted to party, one of them offered to call his wife and arrange a few beers, etc thinking I needed company. Managed to decline the party-on-the-cliff-top offer, and accept the healthier gifts instead.

Later still, a bunch of 7 scrambler bike riders roared into my little camp. Turns out they were also friendly guys in their 50s -60s, who like to explore the forestry tracks. They were impressed with my modest little tent, and we chatted about motor bikes, walking in Tasmania, the view from here and price of real estate in the Congewai. We took photos of each other and they roared off.

Day 8 - 15 Dec 2013 - Flatrock to the Basin

Slept well. Breakfast of muesli and nuts, packed and left Flatrock early Sunday walking south, still carrying extra water thanks to my new friends. The fire trail stopped and I found the GNW post marking the track, followed it down a windy narrow slope, across the Watagan Creek, into some beautiful isolated pasture country. 
Watagan Creek

Kept going slowly up the side of Mt Warrawolong (642m). Had a break then continued along a fire trail called Kangaroo Point Road down and up again, crossed something called the Pig and Sow Ridge. 

 Mid arvo I noticed something white behind a stump. It was a 10 litre Coles Drinking Water container, half full. I took a litre and kept going, wondering how many walkers that person had helped. 

 The track became very windy, steeply descending for some hours, although it looks dead straight on the map. Came to conjunction of two creeks in a sizeable pool. Very cool, damp and dark with big ferns and moss on everything. It looked like a 'basin', although was not the Basin I thought it was. 

 Pitched camp, topped up on water, had a soapless wash, and went to sleep listening to the sweet running water and the odd owl.
 

Day 9 - 16 Dec 2013 The Basin to Cedar Brush

Woke early with birdsong I didn't recognise. Ate, packed, and walked on. Beautiful but dense forest. In half hour came to The Basin turnoff, an extra 5k side-trip on the map I decided to save for a lucky future. Kept climbing a winding track of sorts up to Walkers Ridge, got lost in the undergrowth few times due to landslides, tree falls and unmarked forks on the track, but each time sorted it out. 
 
Late morning still climbing and crossed Forrest Road onto Kingtree Ridge; easy going now on a fire trail to a place called 'Walkers Rest', so I did and camped. Early day so did some sketching. 

Behind a log in the bush I found a plastic bucket with a tight lid. Inside were provisions and a note written in 2009, inviting me to help myself to the food: cans of baked beans (I took one) and Wheat Bix (turned to dark grey powder). I added my thanks to the note and said I might  return
one day and add some water. The baked beans heated up tasted great, although weird dreams that night.

Day 10 - 17 Dec 2013  Cedar Brush to Yarramalong


Up before dawn, ate, packed, and walked into the hot morning, drinking water freely trusting I was close to a supply. A GNW post steered me left off the fire trail into a beautiful winding trail, across, up, down across up, then several 'No Trespass' (etc) signs, so I knew a road would appear soon. 

Sure enough it was Brush Creek Road and I had reached Cedar Brush Trackhead. 

Easy walking then, although getting sore, hot and tired. Met an old guy, is 70 old?, on a quad bike with a rat-catcher doglet in the basket. He turned off the motor and we chatted a while. Told him I was looking forward to resting a day or so down the road in Yarramalong. He gave me the bad news- all the accommodation had closed down, including the pub and camping ground, and there is no phone service for me to search for options on my iPad. The good news was his son in law now had a monopoly running the only shop in town. Great.

Getting hot, over 10km along Brush Creek Road, I made it to
Yarramalong, the shop, left my pack there and wandered around looking for a place to pitch camp..or anything. Found nothing. Back to the shop and told the staff I'll hitch into Wyong and rest a day there. One of them said she was going that way and gave me a lift. How lucky! Turns out she is at Newcastle Uni doing radiography.


At Wyong I checked into the Royal Hotel. A guy at the bar took a look at me and said 'God, you need a beer!' and shouted a schooner. Later, caught up with friend Bronwyn who runs the CCLC here. Later still, so good to sleep in a bed, even with window wide open to the good old Pacific Highway.

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